Showing posts with label Montana. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Montana. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 12, 2010

Visions of The Blackfoot at 70 MPH

"We were raised at the intersection of great trout rivers in Missoula, Montana."
~the narrative voice of Norman Maclean from A Rivers Runs Through It
 The last 100 miles of the trip from our house to Missoula is the most anticipated journey that I make every year.  You drive through Lewistown and on to Great Falls along Montana Highway 200, with the Judiths, the Little Belts, the Highwoods, the Bear Paws and the Snowy mountain ranges appearing as distinct spots on the horizon to your north and south.  Technically and visually, though you are traveling across the prairie for 350 miles.  When you approach the Rocky Mountain Front near Simms and climb Rogers Pass, you are suddenly and truly in a mountain realm. 
 You are also at the headwaters of the Blackfoot River.  The last 90 miles of the journey take you through some of the most beautiful scenery in Montana.  Certainly not the most rugged in terms of the raw wildness found in the Bob Marshall Wilderness and Glacier, but a continual beauty throughout the valley that is seldom experienced.  Coming off of Rogers Pass, the valley opens up to willows and brush as the waters gather and form in to a flowing stream.
 The valley is never overhwelmingly wide.  Mountain slopes skirting the valley are filled with ponderosa and lodgepole pine, much of which is being decimated by the pine bark beetle.  Careful reading of the growth habits of the hardwoods on the valley floor lets you locate the river even when the highway ventures far from it.  It is a valley whose history is filled with mining, logging, agriculture, unabombers, and now:  cooperative conservation.
While the Blackfoot valley is exquisite on its own terms for natural beauty, my favorite part is the story of the Blackfoot Challenge and the beauty of the human spirit.  The Blackfoot Challenge is a watershed group that formed here in 1973 to represent a variety of public interest groups and restore the river to its full potential.  Private landowners (ranchers, retirees, outfitters), government entities, corporations and non-profits all take part in both meetings, steering committees and hands-on restoration.  

 I love the idea of watershed groups.  I love that people can work together to find common ground in a setting such as the Blackfoot River valley, can work to rehabilitate a watershed, can maintain economic prosperity, and can live side by side all while recognizing that a healthy ecosystem benefits us all, no matter what our beliefs.  Cooperative conservation doesn't always work so well.  Sometimes it isn't very pretty.  What matters, though, is that people participate and progress has been made.  If only all cooperative conservation efforts had as many success stories as the Blackfoot Challenge...
The Blackfoot River runs for 132 miles, starting near Lincoln and ending at Milltown where it spills in to the Clark Fork River, a waterway with its own sordid history and just as many (if not more) success stories resulting from the cleanup of Superfund sites related to early 20th Century mining in Butte, the richest hill on earth.   Just after the two rivers merge, they flow through the Hellgate Canyon on the northeast corner of Missoula.  They meet up with another great river, the Bitterroot, just another few miles downstream.  People rely on these great trout streams for recreation and economics.  Fly fishermen, irrigators, rafters, industry.  It all matters.  It can all co-exist. 

I tell people I travel to Missoula every year for a football game, but really I think I travel there to be reminded of my values and beliefs. To be reminded of the good that can come of working together and recognizing your neighbor's needs.  I need to be reminded that it all matters.  It can all co-exist.

Monday, October 4, 2010

The Perfect Day

 Sometimes we get Autumn.  Sometimes we don't.  Although a brief mid-September snowstorm threatened to put a damper on the fun that can be associated with fall activitities, October is shaping up to be the perfect month of Autumn that it should be.

So on Saturday morning, Danish Cowboy and the other adults in the party headed out at daybreak to gather a portion of our cows out of the pasture and head them east towards home so that the calves can be conditioned prior to shipping them in a few weeks.  I was left behind with the kids and horses (which tend to merge into one on some days in terms of money spent, frustrations caused, tears shed, and love expended) to meet them at about the halfway point.  Three riders, three four wheelers, a side-by-side utility vehicle and two pick-ups with horse trailers comprised our group.
 
The cows didn't have a chance. 

Argo behaved.
 
My kids got to hang out with their favorite people and do things that would ordinarily send fear into their mother's heart.
These are the reasons that I love living here:  fresh air in your face while on the back of a good horse, the opportunity for horseback photography, calves trying to steal some of their mother's milk while everybody is on the move, the exhaustion that hits you when you return to the house, the knowledge that we are just days away from wrapping up another year of production.  It's a good life.

Saturday, January 30, 2010

Because It Is There



On a recent day just before the Blizzard of 2010 and the ensuing Great Freeze threatened to trap us in our home, I embarked on a snowshoeing journey.


It wasn't so much a journey, not really an epic expedition, but more like a 0.5 mile walk up to the rockhills overlooking the ranch headquarters. On a clear day, it stands out boldly.
On a day just before a blizzard, when the winds are high and the snow which has just begun falling is blowing, it was easy to imagine what Everest might be like. And like Sir Edmund Hillary noted on his trip to the top of the world, I went "because it is there." And also because I am tired of being a prisoner from the cold.
It is a remarkable little jaunt. On a clear day, you can see forever up here. The coyotes love to frequent this hilltop to yip and howl at one another. And it's off limits during the warmer months due to the threat of rattlesnakes hiding near their dens, although I have been known to explore it from horseback.The rock features are amazing. They change every year as wind and cold and heat erode the rocks and soil. Small rocks tumble off of their mothers and down the hill. New rocks seem to emerge from the depths of the earth. It's an absolutely captivating place,
and it has been for generations. Even Danish Cowboy's ancestors couldn't resist the call of the rock hills.
The rock hills are far enough away from our home that Tucker Dog rarely, if ever, ventures there. It was a whole new world for him, too. Rabbits to chase, rock chasms to sniff and explore.
And not only is the view amazing, so are the rocks as snow drifts and swirls around them, the moss on them more brilliant now than during the brown months of autumn when I typically explore the hillside.
I'm not an official geologist, though I do own a rock hammer and keep a rock collection squirreled away so that no one will make fun of me. These rocks have historically been called lava rock by locals, but the more accurate term is porcellanite. It is a type of sedimentary rock similar to chert with a smooth, conchoidal, almost lava flow appearance at times. The rocks are then theorized to have been "fired" by the underlying coal seams which caused them to develop an appearance not unlike porcelain. The underlying coal seams which burned are now called scoria with angular fractures and a much lighter density.
The colors range from light and dark shades of gray to orange to red to black. While the rocks are incredibly dense, they are not immune to the powers of wind. The hillside was covered with a fine red dust as winter winds had beat the outermost layer of the exposed rocks to a fine powder.
We weren't gone for long as the blizzard was quickly approaching and I discovered that I, like most other human beings, couldn't walk a straight line to save myself. And the house was quickly disappearing in the blowing snow.
And when we got back, Tucker took a picture of me, too, so that we could prove to the world that I do go on some adventures, albeit small.

Monday, December 14, 2009

The 12 Days of Christmas #1


When I look back at our relationship, I see that Danish Cowboy and I have a foundation in rodeos in both a literal and figurative sense: i.e. us watching people do insane things in the name of tradition and us getting great amusement out of it all. Take our first date for example. He traveled to Missoula and took me out for a nice dinner. We ended up at Red's playing pool and watching the National Finals Rodeo. I had no idea there was such a thing.
And then take our third date a few weeks later. We met in Billings, Montana for the weekend and he took me out for dinner and you guessed it, a rodeo. As we walked up to the Metrapark Arena, I commented on the cool statue out front. "Oh, that's a nice statue of a cowboy. Anyone special?" Although I didn't know it at the time, Danish Cowboy probably wanted to hide in a cave. "That's Dan Mortensen," he replied. "He's been the top saddle bronc rider in the world blah-blah-blah times. Everybody in Montana knows who he is." I then further tested our young relationship during the rodeo by remarking loudly how cruel I found the tie-down calf roping to be.
Danish Cowboy did not keep me for my rodeo knowledge, obviously, but I have learned my fair share over the years. Like the rule about "8 seconds" and "marking out" the horse as he leaves the bucking chute and having learned these things I am now an expert on the subject when the National Finals Rodeo comes about every December. You can ask me anything during these 10 days and I'll know it all. Please don't ask any other time of the year. I simply won't know. (Eerily similar to Super Bowl time, Olympics time, and World Series time). I've learned to cheer for the locals or the people who used to be locals but have since moved just across the state line.
And you always cheer for the ones from Montana. Always. Even if you've never heard their names before.
And the hometown girls? We cheer the loudest for them and although I've never met her and although I'm not a native, I'm glad she calls our little town her original hometown.
Danish Cowboy abandoned me this past weekend to go to Missoula (again) on a guys football-watching trip. I had a most wonderful time watching rodeo, taking random pictures of the television and wrapping presents for the family back East after I got the rugrats in to bed. I enjoyed the rodeo and I most certainly enjoyed running out of Scotch tape. So I used packing tape on the packages for my 5 year old niece. I am so funny.

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Missoula 2009, Final Chapter


Based on my synopsis of Missoula '09 thus far, you might think that I traveled west for football and interesting scenery and micro-brews. Not so.Actually, I traveled west to further my education. See, I had spent two years in Washington, D.C. working for a large law firm. I was exploring my interests, trying to decide whether or not I wanted to be a lawyer. As it turns out, I did not want to be a lawyer and that's all I'm going to say about that.
And what better way to move on to the next phase of my life than to pursue a Master's degree at a northwestern public liberal arts university? The key word there is liberal. (One time, I woke up at 4:30 a.m. to stand in line in sub-freezing weather to wait for football tickets. This girl in front of me decided to keep herself warm by lighting up something that was distinctly not tobacco. Dope smokers. Waiting for football tickets. Think about that picture if you will.) And with that liberalism also came wonderful and memorable experiences like Wilco and Nickel Creek, before they became cool.
And then there was the watershed hydrology class where this dread-locked girl with that same distinctly non-tobacco smell sat next to me every day. However, when I saw past this culture shock, I discovered a fantastic school tucked away in the Rockies. I spent most of my time in the Forestry building learning about the proper management of our natural resources and the benefits of sustainable forestry.

Eventually though, I began to branch out in my studies and started making a trek across campus to the Environmental Studies building (aka the Greenies, the Enviros, and the Tree Huggers)


Named after the first female congresswoman, this building housed some of the craziest people I've come across yet. But guess what? I learned a whole bunch from them! And their fanatacism, though I tended to disagree with many of their beliefs, was inspiring! While I'm still a little disgusted with the class that promoted the idea of an anti-cattle west (now dominated by what they believe to be "welfare ranching"), I am thankful that they showed me the way of the written word (MY written word, that is) and standing up for your convictions. I have to admit: I learned more from them than I ever did from any old forester. But don't tell Danish Cowboy I said that.

Friday, October 16, 2009

Missoula 2009, Episode 3


One good reason to move to Missoula is the presence of lovely little micro-breweries. I never once while living there went to Big Sky Brewing on a Friday evening to have a growler filled up with Moose Drool brown ale for $5.00, but I know people who did. And so it's nice to come back and visit for one of these marvelous creations, fondly called "motor oil" by Danish Cowboy.Another fine reason to travel to Missoula, and the whole point of this little adventure, was to attend a University of Montana Grizzlies football game. These people tailgate in any and all weather. The valley may be filled with smoke from wildfires in early September or it may be covered in snow with the temperature hovering at 15 degrees Fahrenheit. But the show will go on.
And what a show it is! I doubt that there are other stadiums that are more scenic than Washington Grizzly stadium. I doubt that there are other places where your seats can look off to the north and you can daydream about the Rattlesnake wildnerness area, located just a short bike ride from where you are sitting. I doubt that there are other places where you can look at those mountains and trees, knowing that they extend uninhibited for many miles to the north into what is known as the Y2Y corridor.But wait, we didn't come here to daydream about mountains!
We came here for some good entertainment! Meet Monte the mascot. He is the only 2 time Capital One mascot of the year and is the highlight of the opening ceremonies.
Because this was homecoming weekend, all the stops were pulled out. A special treat for my ears: an acoustic rendition of the Star Spangled Banner by the Mission Mountain Wood Band. Never heard of them? Imagine a Montana good ole' boy version of The Dead or Phish. And then imagine them singing the National Anthem. Have I said before how much I love this town!
As a grand finale to this little opening number, we were treated to a flyover by two privately owned military jets. And I discovered that no matter what your feelings are towards military actions, this sort of thing gives you a sense of pride and makes your heart swell with emotion.
Apparently they also played a little bit of football that afternoon. However, my eyes had frozen over at this point and my toes were numb. What was that, do you ask? "Did we win?" Of course we won.


Thursday, October 15, 2009

Missoula 2009, Episode 2


The idea of home, the definition of home, is not a concrete one for me. I've had a few different ones in my life -- south-central Pennslvania; Susquehanna University for college; Alexandria, Virginia; Missoula, Montana; and now the prairies of eastern Montana -- and the special thing about these places is that I still consider each and every one home. There are memories and traits unique to each place and I treasure them all. But Missoula is special. It was an awakening for me.
I traveled here in August 2001, sight unseen, knowing in my heart that it was the right thing to do, with the goal of a Master's degree in sight. I moved myself in to a university-owned apartment after my mom and I had traveled across the country in my little Toyota pick-up with all my worldly possessions stowed in the back. My mom headed home and I was left in this mountain town knowing no one but myself and with only the promise of an October visit from a college friend to keep me company.
And the loneliness was quite marvelous. I woke up to this view up Mount Sentinel every morning, took short hikes in the mountains around town with the distinct aroma of pine sap boiling in the hot, dry, August afternoons. I woke up to snow on Lolo Peak the day after Labor Day. I settled in to a routine of school and research. I was content to be on my own, enjoying school, wondering where life would take me. And then Danish Cowboy showed up.
But I continued with my studies and we had a long-distance relationship for 1.5 years until I graduated, making the trek from mountains to the prairies (or vice versa) every two to three weeks. And I continued to love Missoula and ride a bike everywhere I went, as is custom in these parts.
Missoula is, first and foremost, a college town. The irony and multi-cultural spirit that is lacking on the prairie runs wild here. You are as likely to find a staunch Republican as a cross-dressing hippie bellied up to any given bar. And you'll find them conversing with one another. Peacefully. It is a town surrounded by mountains stretching in all directions with hiking trails into the wilderness backcountry beckoning at almost every turn. And perhaps most important for me, it is an inspiring little town, a hotbed of grassroots activism. Activism for open land and land trusting, acitivism for Community Supported Agriculture, activism for sustainable logging, and activism for being your own person and expressing your beliefs and having them accepted. Perhaps not agreed with, but accepted. I love it here.
P.S. I apologize for the lack of pictures of Missoula experiences. However, the country boy that I was traveling with asked one too many times how the 4 way stop signs worked and whether he could turn right on red. Then we got lost in a gnarly series of roundabouts on the way to the mall. So we grumbled at each other for an hour or two and then I took over the driving. All was well, although there is a considerable lack of pictures of what makes Missoula so amazing. Never fear though, I did get some pictures on Day 2 of Missoula '09 (to be shared tomorrow).
P.P.S.: The country boy is really good at driving in mud and on ice-covered roads, which is more useful to me than navigating city streets, considering where we live. He needs to be commended for this.